So, today we’re sewing the Bikini “Bella” panties. This pattern is perfect if you’re a total beginner (yes, even if you’ve never held a needle in your hands 👀). The “Bella” is fun, quick, and surprisingly easy — but still looks like something you’d be proud to say, “Yep, I made these myself.”
What makes the Bella special is that it’s forgiving yet stylish. You don’t need years of sewing experience — you just need the right fabric, a little patience, and a sewing machine that won’t run away from you. Let’s get into the details.
Materials & Tools You’ll Need
For lingerie, the material you choose matters more than you think. The wrong fabric can stretch weirdly or feel scratchy (no one wants that 🙅♀️). The Bella panties work best with any four-way stretch fabric. Think spandex mesh, polyester, jersey, velvet, or nylon lace. Basically, if it stretches nicely in all directions, you’re good to go.
Now, let’s talk about the the hero of underwear: the gusset lining. For comfort and hygiene, you’ll want something breathable. My personal favourite is this gusset fabric — soft, durable, and made for the job. But here’s the fun myth: you don’t have to buy anything new. If you’ve got an old cotton T-shirt lying around (the one your partner keeps but never wears), snip out a piece and recycle it into a gusset. Zero waste and free fabric.
Elastic — the soul of stretch
Elastic is where you decide if your panties will feel like a hug or like an over-tight sports bra. You’ve got two good options:
- Fold-over elastic — easier to handle, beginner-friendly, basically the training wheels of underwear sewing.
- Picot elastic — a little trickier since you need to fold and stitch carefully, but it adds that lingerie “wow” factor.
Tip from me: start with fold-over elastic if it’s your first time. Once you’ve got the hang of it, picot is a fun upgrade.
Threads & Needles — the real power couple
For thread, I swear by polyester thread. It’s strong, smooth, and doesn’t snap when your elastic stretches. Needles matter too — stick with size 75/11. They’re perfect for stretch fabrics. You can also use super stretch or jersey needles, but don’t get lost in the needle aisle — the magic number is 75/11.
Cutting & Marking Tools
You’ll need a way to mark and cut your fabric:
- Chalk to trace the pattern.
- Pins or clips to hold pieces together.
- Sharp scissors, or, if you want to feel fancy and save time, use a rotary cutter with a healing mat.
And of course, the machines. A sewing machine with zigzag or elastic stitch is enough. If you have an overlocker, use it, but don’t panic if you don’t — Bella is perfectly happy with just a sewing machine.
Ribbon — the optional cherry on top
Some people like their panties sporty, others like them fancy. If you fall in the second camp, a little bow in the centre front does wonders. I usually go for 1.5 cm wide ribbon, but I’ve seen everything from delicate half-centimetre bows to bold, dramatic 5 cm ribbons that look like luxury lingerie. If you’re curious how to make the bow yourself, I’ve got you covered — here’s a YouTube tutorial.
👉 Still building your sewing kit? Check out my guide: Top 10 Sewing Supplies for Making Women’s Underwear (And Why You’ll Fall in Love With Them).
Preparation Tips
Fabric prep can feel boring, but it makes or breaks your sewing. If you’re using cotton, bamboo, or jersey, give it a pre-wash — nothing worse than finishing your panties only for them to shrink in the wash. For polyester, spandex, mesh, or lace, I skip washing. These fabrics are designed to hold shape and stretch, and pre-washing won’t do much.
Next, let’s prep the pattern. Print it only on A4 paper (no US Letter, it’ll mess up the sizing). There’s a 5 × 5 cm test square on the pattern — measure it to make sure your printer didn’t go rogue. The pattern pieces are split across multiple sheets. Look for the little triangles marked A1, B1, etc. They’re your puzzle pieces. Stick A1 to A1, B1 to B1, and so on, and voilà, you’ve got your front and back elements ready.
When cutting, fold your fabric in half and place the pattern edge marked “Fold” right on the fold. This way, when you cut, you’ll get a symmetrical piece. Seam allowances are already included (you’re welcome 😉), so no need to add extra. Don’t forget to mark the gusset placement notches — they’ll save you headaches later.
Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Here comes the fun part: sewing your Bella.
Assemble the crotch seam
Lay the front element face up. Place the back element face down on top of the front element. Place the gusset lining face down on top of the back. Pin or clip the crotch seam and sew. Zigzag, elastic stitch, or overlocker all work fine here.
When you flip the gusset forward, the seam will be sandwiched neatly inside. No raw edges scratching where they shouldn’t.
Secure the gusset
Flip the lining fabric toward the front and pin it to the gusset placement notches. This locks everything in place.
Sew the leg elastics
Choose your elastic (fold-over or picot) and sew around both leg openings. Take your time here — neat elastic makes your panties look shop-bought.
Join one side seam
Place front and back together, right sides facing. Pin the side seam and sew. Press seam allowance toward the back piece (rule of thumb: seams always point backward).
Sew the waistband elastic
Attach your elastic around the waist opening. This brings the whole shape together
Close the second side seam
Sew the remaining side seam, press it toward the back, and secure it. If you want a really clean look, hand-stitch the seam allowance in place so it doesn’t shift.
Add your bow (optional)
If you fancy giving your Bella panties a little extra charm, a bow in the centre front does the trick. But the secret is placing it in exactly the right spot, otherwise it’ll always look slightly “off.”
To find the true middle, fold your panties in half lengthwise so both side seams are sitting directly on top of each other. When you do this, the crease at the front marks the exact centre. Make a small chalk mark there to guide you — or, if chalk isn’t handy, simply slip a pin through the spot as a placeholder.
Once you’ve found your centre, it’s just a matter of hand-stitching the ribbon. A few tiny stitches are more than enough to secure it.
Fitting & Adjustments
When it comes to fit, the golden rule with any panties is this: never cut your elastic in advance. Always sew it directly from the roll. Start attaching it at the waistband or leg openings, stretch it evenly as you go, and only cut it free once you’ve stitched the entire section.
Why is this important? Because pre-cutting elastic often goes wrong. If you’re nervous about running out, you’ll end up overstretching it and your panties will squeeze tighter than shapewear. If the elastic isn’t good quality, you might under-stretch it instead, leaving a fit so loose it can literally slip down. Sewing straight from the roll prevents both problems and guarantees a balanced stretch.
Now, let’s talk about the gusset. If you want to adjust the width, do it before you attach the elastic. Once the elastic is sewn on, it’s too late — you’d have to start over. My trick is simple: after sewing the crotch seam, tack the side seams with just a few stitches and try the panties on. That quick test will show you if the gusset feels right.
One last detail: the type of elastic you use changes the gusset width. With fold-over elastic, the gusset keeps its original width. With picot elastic, you lose about two centimetres because of the fold. Keeping that in mind will save you from surprises and help you get a fit that feels tailor-made.
Final Thoughts
So, there you go: the Bikini “Bella” panties — one of the easiest and most rewarding sewing projects you’ll ever try. Whether you went sporty or glam, you now have a handmade piece you can be proud of.
And if you’re hooked (you probably are), why not try more? Check out my full collection of underwear sewing patterns. Warning: making lingerie is addictive. So don’t say I didn’t tell you. 💜
