Introduction
Meet Charlotte Sewing Pattern — a fabulously versatile crop top you can sew two ways. One way uses a single fabric layer for a light, everyday top (or a cheeky underwear-style piece in transparent guipure). The other way builds a double-layer front for more support, perfect for activewear, gym sessions, or even as part of a two-piece swim set. Total beginners are absolutely welcome. I’ll walk you through both methods exactly as I sew them, with all my real-life notes, so you get a beautiful result the first time.
Materials & Tools You’ll Need
Elastic — the soul of stretch
For finishing the neckline, armholes and waistband you can use fold-over elastic — it’s the easiest and most forgiving choice for neat edges. If you’re going for an underwear vibe, picot elastic with pretty scallops gives that romantic finish; it comes with small or larger scallops for more “luxe” look. If you want extra support for gym wear, add a wide band elastic at the waist. Remember: a 5 cm band will make the top 5 cm longer — and much snuggier under the bust.
Threads & Needles — the real power couple
Use polyester thread only (cotton snaps on stretch). I often sew with Gutermann because it’s strong and doesn’t break easily, but any good polyester that matches your fabric and elastic is fine. For needles, go with 75/11 needles (stretch or ballpoint both work well on knits and elastics). They slide through four-way stretch fabrics and elastics cleanly without skipped stitches or laddering.
Cutting & Marking Tools
If you like outlining first, use chalk. Keep sharp scissors ready for clean edges. Prefer to skip outlining? Place your fabric on a healing mat, lay the pattern on top, and cut right around with a rotary cutter for crisp, accurate curves — fast and tidy.
Fabrics & Combinations (what works beautifully)
Use any stretch fabric you love. For an underwear-styled look, four-way stretch mesh is lovely for lounging with light support; guipure or stretch lace (especially with an open scallop edge) looks beautifully romantic. For going-out tops, activewear or swim, choose polyester, lycra or jersey (I personally prefer lycra or polyester; jersey is fine if that’s your comfort zone). You can also mix fabrics: for gym wear I often make the front in lycra/poly and the back in four-way mesh for a lighter, less-sweaty feel. Prints? Floral or animal (hello leopard) both look fabulous.
For more beginner-friendly kit advice, peek at “Top 10 Sewing Supplies for Making Women’s Underwear (And Why You’ll Fall in Love With Them)”.
Assembly Tips
Print A4 paper only at 100%. Check the 5 × 5 cm test square on the first page; if it’s off, fix your printer settings and reprint. This pattern gives you one size per page (from UK4/XXS, chest 82 cm through UK20/4XL, chest 114 cm), so you’re not fighting a spaghetti bowl of nested lines. Measure your chest at the fullest point and choose the closest size; a few centimetres either way is usually fine because the fabric stretches.
When your pattern turns into a puzzle (real story!)
I once had a funny but stressful moment — my husband printed me a pattern I asked for. Somehow the printer mixed all the pages between each other. When he brought it to me, it looked like a Lego puzzle, and I had no idea which element needed to stick to which.
The main front piece was easy because it had the size written on it, but all the small connecting pieces like gusset? Chaos. I had to take each one and try to match the sizing manually, and sometimes it was just millimetres off, but even that can dramatically change your final result.
That’s exactly why on every single pattern element now, you’ll find the size printed clearly — if the main front says Size M, then the connecting piece that continues from it will also say Size M right under the BusinkaMania brand name. It saves you from guessing and guarantees your pattern comes together perfectly every time.
Preparation Tips
Pages join using triangle markers with codes like 1A, 1B (match same-to-same — e.g., 1A to 1A, 1B to 1B). Every piece is labelled front/back, has Fold marks where needed, and seam allowance is included (no extra maths mid-sew!). Tip from my house: once a mixed-up print stack turned the layout into a jigsaw; now I love that each piece repeats the size label under the BusinkaMania name so matching is easy.
How to Sew Charlotte
Method 1 — Double-Layer Front (support for gym & swim)
Fold your fabric in half, place the front on the fold, and cut two fronts plus one back. Lay front (layer 1) right-side up on your table. Place the back on top, right sides facing the front. Then lay front (layer 2) on top, right-side down — you’re building a sandwich with the back in the middle and the two fronts facing each other.
Close the shoulder and side seams
Sew both shoulder seams and both side seams through all layers. An overlocker is optional here because every seam will be hidden inside the sandwich. On a regular machine use a narrow zigzag (or a straight stitch sewn back-and-forth to reinforce). Beginner myth: “You must overlock knits.” Not today — this method hides everything neatly inside.
Turn right-side out and finish the edges
Turn the top through to the right side. Now attach fold-over elastic around the neckline, armholes and lower edge, or swap the lower edge for a wide band elastic if you want gym-level support (remember it adds to the finished length). Because all internal seams are sealed, your finish looks clean inside and out.
Method 2 — Single Layer (light, everyday, or lingerie-style)
Cut one front (on the fold) and one back. Place front right-side up, back right-side down (right sides together). Pin one shoulder seam and the opposite side seam (e.g., right shoulder + left side). Sew those two seams — I recommend the overlocker here because these seams remain visible; a narrow zigzag on a sewing machine also works.
Press seam allowances to the back — always
Push both stitched seam allowances toward the back piece and pin them so they don’t flip while sewing. Little detail, big polish: even if no one sees it, you’ll know it’s right (and your future self won’t twitch when you look inside).
Attach elastic with the openings flat
With the unsewn side seam and shoulder still open, start your elastic at an open seam. Start from the open side seam and sew elastic around the armhole, going up over the shoulder and back down. Then sew the neckline elastic from one shoulder to the other, keeping stitched seams pressed toward the back.
Next, sew elastic around the second armhole, again starting at the shoulder, then finish with the waistband elastic, beginning and ending at the open side seam. Use either fold-over elastic or picot elastic, and always check seams stay neatly pushed to the back.
Close the remaining seams and lock them neatly
Now flip the top so front and back are right sides together again, align the elastic edges, and sew the last shoulder and last side seams. To keep the join perfectly level, first hand-tack the elastic ends together with needle and thread, then stitch by machine — no sliding under the presser foot. Finish by hand-stitching (I use a tiny blanket stitch) to anchor the seam allowances to the back so they stay pointing the right way.
Fitting & Adjustments
Choose your fabric combo to match your plan: double-layer front for more bust support (gym or swim), single layer for light everyday wear or lingerie styling. A wide waist band elastic adds both support and length; decide that before cutting. If you run warm during workouts, consider that mesh-back + lycra-front mix — airy in back, supportive in front. Prefer a softer, romantic look? Pick stretch guipure/lace (a scallop edge looks extra pretty at the hem).
Finishing Touches
Give all elastic seams a gentle steam and a flat press (no stretching while pressing). Snip threads, check that shoulder and side joins line up smoothly, and admire the clean inside on the double-layer version. Whether you styled Charlotte in sleek lycra, glossy polyester, airy mesh, or show-stopping guipure, she’s ready to wear — from gym to pool to a cute “going-out” moment with your favourite bottoms.
Final Thoughts
That’s Charlotte done — two builds, one fabulous top. If you’re thinking swim set or a matching lounge look, have a scroll through our underwear sewing patterns to pick bottoms that pair perfectly.
