Introduction

If you’ve ever wished for one sewing pattern that could cover gym time, swim time, and chill-at-home time — meet Top Eleganza, your new multitasking bestie.

This top is one of my proudest creations — not just because it looks stunning on every body type, but because of how accurate the sizing is. Before I release any pattern, I personally test every size to make sure it fits like a dream. And honestly? That’s what makes me the happiest — seeing so many of you send photos in your perfectly fitting makes! 💕

So, let’s chat about how to sew your own Top Eleganza. It’s beginner-friendly, quick to make, and seriously versatile — you can style it as gym wear, swimwear, or even a comfy lingerie top. Three-in-one magic! ✨

Materials & Tools You’ll Need

The beauty of this top is how flexible it is (pun totally intended). You can use almost any stretchable fabric — Lycra, four-way stretch mesh, spandex, or even lace. Here’s what I recommend:

• Fabric: Anything stretchable. For a sporty vibe, go for Lycra, spandex or mesh. For something delicate, lace or guipure looks divine.
• Elastic: You can use fold-over elastic (my personal go-to — so many colour options!) or picot elastic if you want a soft, romantic finish.
• Thread: I always use polyester thread. It’s strong, smooth, and has that little bit of stretch you need for activewear.
• Needles: 75/11 needles work perfectly for this project.
• Cutting tools: Choose between sharp scissors or a rotary cutter with a healing mat.
• Marking tools: Good old chalk for pattern outlines.
• Fasteners: A few pins or clips will save your sanity.
• Extras: Strap elastic, sliders, and rings for adjustable straps.

🖨️ How to Prepare the Pattern – Assembly Tips

Before we touch the sewing machine, let’s get your pattern ready.

1. Print on A4 paper only (no Letter size, no resizing — trust me on this one).
   Make sure to print at 100% scale and check the little square on the first page. It must measure exactly 5 × 5 cm. If it’s off, adjust your printer settings and try again.
2. You’ll notice little triangles marked with numbers and letters — like A1, A2, A3 for the front and B1, B2, B3 for the back.
3. Cut out the pages, then match the markings (A1 to A1, A2 to A2, and so on).
4. Tape or glue the pieces together until you have the full front and back pattern.
5. All seam allowances are already included — no need to add extra. Just cut and go! ✂️

When your pattern is assembled, you’ll have two main pieces: the front and the back.

Method 1: Single-Layer Version

If you’ve got an overlocker and want something quick, breathable, and simple to sew — the one-layer version will be your go-to. It’s that “sew today, wear tonight” kind of project.

Start by placing your fabric on a flat surface and cutting one front and one back piece. Lay them face-to-face, so the right sides are kissing. Then, head over to your overlocker and sew both side seams and the small shoulder seam near the neckline. Remember to always press or push your seams toward the back — that’s my golden rule for neat finishes. Sometimes I even pin them down before the next step, just to make sure nothing flips the wrong way while I’m sewing.

Now it’s time for the elastic.

You can use fold-over elastic — I usually take 1.5 cm width because it’s comfortable and comes in every possible colour — or picot elastic if you’re sewing with lace. Take your chosen elastic and place the edge of the fabric right into the middle line of the elastic fold. Then fold the elastic over and sew it with a zigzag or elastic stitch. Personally, I love using the elastic stitch — it looks prettier and holds the fabric better, especially for gym wear.

Start sewing from the curved side — that lovely little arc where the strap sits. After finishing this arc, sew around the neckline and the armhole, remembering to push the small shoulder (neck) seam toward the back. Clean up the edges after you finish this part.

Then sew the elastic along the bottom edge, starting again from that same side arc. At the beginning, leave 2–3 centimetres of empty elastic — sew a few centimetres of the elastic alone before inserting the fabric. This gap is where we’ll later attach the side strap. After that, place the fabric edge inside the fold of the elastic and sew all the way around the bottom line of the top. When you reach the other arc on the opposite side, again leave 2–3 centimetres of empty elastic at the end for the strap attachment.

Once the bottom is finished, move to the front element (triangle section where your chest area is). Place that front piece into the elastic fold, fold it, and start sewing all the way around the front, neckline, then continue around the shoulder, through the back, and come back again to the front (check image above). When you arrive where you started, keep another 2–3cm of empty elastic for the shoulder strap. Trim any leftover pieces neatly to keep everything clean.

Now sew the opposite shoulder seam

The big one on the other side from where the strap will be. Fold your top face-to-face again, align both elastics on that shoulder, pin them, and sew together on the overlocker. Push this shoulder seam toward the back element and secure it by hand-stitching — it looks tidier that way.

Straps:

After you finish sewing the top, the next step is to prepare the straps. I’m not going to go into long explanations here because it’s much easier to watch the video below — it shows exactly how to make adjustable straps for this top.

When your straps are ready, take them and remember those little pieces of empty elastic we left earlier on the sides and near the shoulder. That’s where we are going to attach our straps. You’ll need two straps in total. And every time people ask me how many centimetres they should cut, I always say it depends on your size — the smaller the size, the shorter the strap will be.

What I recommend is to try the top on and measure directly on yourself how long you want the strap to be. Add another 6–7 centimetres for the adjustment part, because it’s always better to have a little extra and cut it later than to make it too short and realise you don’t have enough. Once your straps are attached, the one-layer version of the Top Eleganza is completely ready.

Method 2: Double-Layer Version

Now let’s talk about the double-layer version — my personal favourite when I want a smoother inside finish or when I don’t feel like using the overlocker. It looks polished, hides all the seams, and feels just a bit more “designer”.

For this version, you’ll need two front pieces and one back piece. Start by laying one front piece with the right side facing up. On top of it, place your back piece right side down, and then add the second front piece — also right side down — so the back piece is sandwiched between the two fronts. It sounds like a fabric sandwich, and that’s exactly what it is. Pin everything securely in place.

Sew the shoulder and side seams using your overlocker, or if you don’t have one, use an elastic or zigzag stitch on your regular machine — it works just fine. Once that’s done, gently turn your top right side out by pulling the back piece through. This is the moment where it starts to look like a real top and not a fabric puzzle.

Next, it’s time to add your elastic trims

Take your fold-over elastic and sew it around the curved side seam – that’s the small arc on the side of the crop-top. Trim both the beginning and end of the elastic neatly so the bottom line looks even and clean.

Then continue with the neckline. Fold your elastic along the neck and start sewing all the way around until you come back to the place where you started. When you reach it, slightly place one piece of elastic on top of the other and sew back and forth several times to lock the stitches. After that, trim the elastic very close to the seam so it stays smooth. I usually take a lighter and lightly burn the fuzzy ends, but only if you feel comfortable doing it. Safety first! If you prefer, you can simply trim it neatly with scissors.

Do the same process around the armhole, but this time start sewing from the side seam, not from the shoulder. Begin under the arm, sew all the way over the shoulder, and come back again to the side seam. Overlap and secure the elastic the same way you did for the neckline. The good thing about this double-layer method is that you don’t have to worry about pushing seams to one side — everything is hidden inside between the layers.

Finally

Sew the elastic along the bottom of the top. Again, start by leaving 2–3 centimetres of empty elastic before inserting the fabric — this will be used later for attaching the side straps. After sewing around the bottom, leave another 2–3 centimetres of empty elastic at the end for the opposite side strap.

Now move to the front chest area. Place the front triangle part inside the elastic fold, fold it, and start sewing from the front chest, going up toward the neckline, then around the shoulder, across the back, under the arm, and back again to the front. When you return to the starting point, leave another 2–3 centimetres of empty elastic for the shoulder strap.

That’s it — the main part of the double-layer top is done.

Now you just need to prepare the straps

You don’t have to stick to adjustable straps only. One of my favourite ways is to cover the strap elastic with the same fabric as the top. It looks amazing, though it won’t be adjustable. If you try that, just put the top on yourself, pin the straps where you like them, and sew them in place.

I’m not going to explain how to sew them here because it’s much easier to watch the video below.

And if you decide to go more into the lingerie vibe with lace or guipure and picot elastic, I absolutely adore using decorative sliders – especially the gold heart-shaped ones. They look stunning whether you use them for underwear or even gym tops.

🎥 Video Tutorial

And if you’re a more visual person and prefer to see the process, I’ve got you covered!
Down below you’ll find the full video tutorial where I show how to sew this top step-by-step — from start to finish — plus all my favourite sewing machine settings for straps, fold-over elastic, and picot elastic.

In the same video, I also talk about what size of needles to use (because not every needle works with stretch fabrics!) and share my secret settings that make every stitch smooth and clean.

So if you’re new to sewing activewear or lingerie, definitely check it out — these settings will save you hours of testing and frustration.

Final Thoughts

And there you have it — your brand new Top Eleganza, ready to slay three lives in one wardrobe: gym top, swim top, and comfy lounge bralette.

I’ve seen so many of you create this pattern in your own way — animal prints, florals, lace, bold colours — and it always turns out beautiful. Sometimes even better than my original idea (and that’s saying something!). 😄

If you love this project and want to explore more, check out my underwear sewing patterns — each one tested, loved, and approved by real makers like you.

And if you’d like to know what tools I use every single day, read this next:
👉 Top 10 Sewing Supplies for Making Women’s Underwear (And Why You’ll Fall in Love With Them)

Now grab a cup of tea, admire your new creation, and remember — this top isn’t just a pattern, it’s your new secret weapon for every occasion. 💪💖